2/11/2024 0 Comments Diy router planerOnce you get the hang of it, using the jig is a breeze. This is easy to do with most () simply by adjusting the turret on the depth stop.Īfter surfacing one face, you can run the opposite face through the planer and you’ll have a flat workpiece with parallel faces, as shown in the box below. You may need to make several passes to flatten the workpiece. I also limit the depth of cut to around 1 ⁄ 8 " for smooth, tearout-free cutting. I find it helpful to mark the surface with a pencil to show my progress. The key is to take overlapping passes and work your way over the surface along the entire length of the workpiece. Once you’ve set up the jig and installed the correct bit, all you need to do is move the router back and forth across the grain to flatten the stock. It has an up-shear design that cuts cleanly in just about any material. These bits come in different diameters, but the smaller ones will require many more passes over the stock to flatten the surface. However, my preference is to use a bottom-cleaning bit designed for this purpose. That means you can use most straight bits. This technique depends on a router bit with a flat bottom. You can see how the base and jig work together in the main photo. With the workpiece secured between the rails, you can flatten it by routing away the high spots. If necessary, a small piece of doublesided tape can be used to hold the wedges in place under the workpiece. By placing additional wedges under the spots where the stock is not in contact with the jig’s base, you keep it stable while routing. By adjusting the position of the stops to limit the travel of the router, you prevent the bit from damaging the rails.Īs I mentioned earlier, I use simple shop-made wedges to secure the workpiece between the rails. One important detail to take note of is the pair of stops on the underside of the base. The drawings above show the plans for building the router base. To span the distance between the rails, mount your router on a large auxiliary base. Shop-made wedges “pinch” it between the rails and hold it fast while you rout the face. This arrangement allows you to secure stock of different widths in the jig simply by moving the back rail against the edges of the workpiece. You’ll notice that the front rail of the jig is fixed and the back rail is adjustable. The drawings show you how to make the base and rails that form the basic jig. Add to that platform a set of rails slightly taller than the thickness of the workpiece and you’ve established a reference surface you can use to flatten the face. This technique begins by mounting the workpiece in a stable platform that will prevent it from moving or rocking. My favorite way to tackle this problem is with a router and a shop-made jig. You could break out the hand planes and get to work, but that can make for a long day if the workpiece is twisted. Unless you have a very wide jointer, flattening the surface can be a problem. But to end up with a flat workpiece, you have to flatten one face first. What a planer actually does is reduce the thickness of a workpiece and make one face parallel to the other. There’s a common misconception that a planer will flatten the stock you run through it.
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